The iconic mill structure just across the river from Ellicott City was the last operating commercial flour mill in America. Last owned by Wilkins-Rogers, Inc., there have been mills on this site since 1774. While Wilkins-Rogers operated a flour mill from the early 1970s until 2020, this factory was home to the Donut (originally “Doughnut”) Corporation of American from 1920 until 1970.
Founded after World War I by Adolph Levitt, it produced the Downyflake flour used in the making of donuts. Levitt himself was an interesting character. An immigrant from Russia, he was inspired by the stories from the First World War of soldiers eating freshly made donuts in the trenches delivered by Red Cross “Donut Dollies.” In 1920, he developed one of the first donut-making machines, which he demonstrated to the public at his Mayflower Coffee shop in Harlem, New York City, beginning in 1931. Putting the machine at the front of the store behind glass allowed patrons to watch the process of making donuts—much like Krispy Creme today. He was the Willy Wonka of the donut world!
The Donut Corporation not only sold the patented Downyflake flour to make the donuts, they sold the machines. All were produced at the factory, parts of which were located in Oella and in Ellicott City. By the time of the early 1930s, donuts had become a national obsession. They appeared in movies, musicals, and popular songs.
The Donut Corporation actually started a “dunking contest” (albeit without NBA stars), created the National Dunking Association, sponsored displays at the World’s Fair, and added photos of famous people eating doughnuts in newspapers and magazines. The company even introduced National Doughnut Week in the 1930s. In The Donut Book, Levitt’s granddaughter Sally Levitt Steinberg called Adolph “the Donut King,” an apt reference to the man whose creative marketing helped make the donut an American treasure.
Some older residents in the area worked at the factory until it closed and have fond memories of their time there. We have an extensive collection at our archives for those seeking more information. The building still stands, but is slated for development into condominiums, restaurants, and shopping.
Mark J. Stout is the Executive Director of the Howard County Historical Society. He spent the previous 33 years in the Howard County Public School System in a variety of roles.
Wow!!!